Let's show you a comparison chart from the 880 & 920 led's to the 850 red glow led's
Wavelenght: 920nm ~ Now 850nm
Pd (mW) 100 ~ Now 150
If (mA) 20ma. min. ~ Now 50ma. min.
Peak (mA) 50ma. max. ~ Now 250ma. max.
Vf (V) 1.5v ~ Now 1.7v
Vf (V) maximum voltage 1.6v ~ Now 2.0v
Radiant Power: 20 ~ Now 50
Viewing angle 30 degree
The general point about IR heat from sources, The air molecules, form infrared wavelengths that are detectable from your camera's CCD chip carry an infrared transmission. Sometimes on humid day's the misty molecules can make a video recording terrible as the camera is focusing on this closer pattern.
The warmer the area, equivelates recording more IR (infrared) as it is released from the absorbtion of natural nursery scenery such as trees, rocks, the earths soil, human & animal body heat, streams etc.
Any led thats rated for a particular NM is going to output that regardless of current input. They will get brighter (thats intensity, not wavelength) with more current , but your not going to change the nanometer output.
Exposed 35mm film (Trailer)
What nm rating do you think exposed 35mm film is?
P41 flash, exposed 35mm film, ( also called trailer ) transmission nm, a wavelength of approximately 436 nanometers. This explains the green tint associated with it in the daytime. Again I would have to say the higher the speed film the lower the nm reading would be, this result was from a 400 speed film. ISO 100 is preffered range and 90%
Spectral data records the amount of reflected light in 10-nanometer or 20-nanometer bands. (Not an exact number)
Light: The wavelengths that lie in the range of 380 (violet) to 720 (red) nanometers, and are detectable by the human eye.
Above 720 is the Red tint, such as the P41, you need to match the p41 nm @ 840nm to get good "low diminished red tint" pictures.
Visible: wavelengths between 380 and 720 nanometers. The short wavelengths within this range produce blue and violet sensations; the longer wavelengths produce orange and red sensations.
CCD, Charged Coupled Device, this is an internal computer chip focal piece of glass like material formulated over a computer controled chip, and electronical board that detects the amount of IR light available at any given time that the shutter is open allowing IR light to pass through, provided your HOT FILTER / MIRROR has already been removed. Every CCD chip is different and accpets differnt wavelengths by the chip. (set at the factory)
A Better Explination on Infrared
1.) Infrared means near or Invisible light source from the human eye. Yet noticeable to the human eye through a CCD chip inside cameras and video camera with ir acceptance, or a low nm. Most major brands of cameras have a ccd chip inside to allow a fraction of IR light to pass the "mirror filter" If you took a remote control and pointed it at your camera and look at the LCD window it will show IR light being transmitted from the remote control led to the camera. The brighter the led is the better/more powerful the infrared chip is inside your camera.
2.) Infrared is a bounce theory. It must be reflected from one source to another to achieve optimum performance. Studies have show open field test with an array produces a great amount of ir, yet when viewed with the same array in a wildlife situation of trees, limbs & branches, shrubs, mammals and all types of animals, rocks and humans all give off heat (which is infrared heat) Produced quality video. However an abundance of humidity will lesson the clarity of your recordings as the camera focus' on the humid molecules.
Sometimes: Colder is better !! You really need the perfect conditions.
Now that we have the heat concept up, let's talk about the equipment performance, the performance is the same on the array as it was in the coldest climate and the warmest climate, however during warm day's & night's the earth warms up the atmosphere, trees, shrubs ground, rocks etc, with this heat absorbed into the material then escapes as infrared rays. bouncing from one item to another. (Generating more visible IR). Now with an atmosphere of humidity may not actually hold true to this theroy of more heat being better, on humid day's the IR level is less.
The theory is: The warmer the enviromental surroundings in view, the broader more enhanced your recordings and viewing's will be. Understand the equipment performs the same, but the benefit is obtained from the actual heat it captures. All wildlife carry body heat, the warmer they are, the clearer the picture becomes, the closer the nm is to your equipment match, will show spectacular results. It's like putting diesel in a gas engine, it just doesn't match.
Olympus is better quality IR but once enhanced with a wratten filter in = nanometers wavelengths, the results are superior. Also Sony (tm) P series cams, these cameras offer a deep red 720 & higher nm tint in evening pictures and has no auto focus because it rely's on the visible ir light to focus, if no visible ir light is available the quality of your shots are very disturbing. Yes these can be easily fixed with an equally close nm filter over the camera flash and a slave flash for evening shooting's. All camera's that I know of can see IR if the hot filter is removed. To go one step even further to better allow the internal ccd chip to actually see ir and auto focus is to add a matching led to the front of the camera shutter window. Once powered on the ccd automatically detects visible ir and can now focus a much tighter picture.
